Diesel Knocks Itself Off During NYFW

NYC’s Canal street has long been associated with knock-off / counterfeit goods of the most highly sought after brand names in the world. During NYFW, instead of continuing the fight against fakes, Diesel’s founder Renzo Rossodecided to open up shop & go head to head by knocking off the knock-off’s.

Not the first brand to knock themselves off (“Guccy” aka Gucci pulled this move recently with legendary counterfeit couturier Dapper Dan), Diesel did however properly harness the grey market culture & all it’s finesses. They changed the order of the I & E in their name & filled the shop with plastic hangers, neon “sale” & “buy 2, get 1 free” signs, open boxes with piles of clothing spilling out, white T-shirts with a red “Deisel” logo emblazoned on it, racks of jeans & had sweaters wrapped in individual plastic bags sprawled across the shop. They hired a Canal street vendor to run the shop & in proper fashion dropped all their prices, selling Diesel jeans for a mere $69.99 (instead of the usual price tag of $200+).

If you’re going to dive deep in to a culture you have to go all in, and from shop look, feel, pricing & signage, Diesel did exactly that. Oh & as a final F*CK YOU to the counterfeit market, they went all out & officially trademarked DEISEL too. Genius.

Rick Owens First Ever Retrospective Opens In Milan

“The clothes I make are my autobiography. They are the calm elegance I want to get to and the damage I’ve done on the way. They are an expression of tenderness and raging ego. They are an adolescent idealization and its inevitable defeat.” – Rick Owens

Rick Owens has been the catalyst & inspiration for many subcultures of expression & design. His diverse range of artistry has been seen in the forms of architecture, furniture, & fashion. On December 15, 2017 La Triennale Di Milano opened its halls to a unique exhibition dedicated to the visionary designer. Although Rick has put on many shows & exhibits over the years, this will be his first retrospective. “Subhuman, Inhuman, Superhuman” showcases two decades of his visionary creativity, including a curated selection of more than 100 garments, objects, accessories, furniture & videos.

Curated in part by Eleonora Fiorani, the experience is displayed and connected through a spectacular site-specific installation, created by Rick himself, & will run until March 25, 2018.

Tim Walker & Edward Enninful Collaborate On The 2018 Pirelli Calendar

The annual Pirelli Calendar has long been the home of the some of the most provocative pictures in the fashion and art worlds. Over the years photographers like Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Inez and Vinoodh, Annie Leibovitz, & Steven Meisel Photography, have been given the freedom to reinterpret and recreate the message behind the calendars theme year after year. This year Tim Walker adds his name to the lineage of respected & esteemed photographers for the calendars 45th annual collection.

In a time where appreciating diversity is a hot topic on the lips of the entire fashion industry, Tim Walker with the help of newly appointed British Vogue’s Editor in Chief Edward Enninful, tell the story of Alice in Wonderland, reimagined with an all black star studded cast. Sean Combs, Naomi Campbell, Whoopi Goldberg, Djimon Hounsou, Slick W, Adwoa Aboah, & RuPaul (as the queen of hearts of course!) helped remake this timeless fantasy.

“To see a black Alice today means children of all races can embrace the idea of diversity from a young age and also acknowledge that beauty comes in all colours,” said Edward, & the rest of us couldn’t agree more.

RIP Azzedine Alaïa – Master Couturist 

News hit today that French couturist Azzedine Alaia has passed away at the age of 77. He was a true visionary that redefined contemporary fashion, and his legacy will forever live on within the soul that is haute couture.

For those who are unfamiliar with his story, from a young age Azzedine was obsessed with the human form & the creativity of couture. He started on his journey by lying about his age to get accepted in to École des Beaux-Arts in Tunisia, & after graduation he quickly began making waves. Moving to Paris in 1957, he worked under Christian Dior as a tailleur before he went on to work for Guy Laroche & then Thierry Mugler. In 1970 he opened an atelier where for almost 20 years he privately dressed the worlds jet-setting elite class. In the late 80’s his seductive clingy clothing became an international success. His unique designs evoked beauty, sensuality, confidence & a chic sense of eroticism in the women they were made for. Alaia always believed women look their most beautiful in clothes that make them look strong.

Azzedine was known to be quite opinionated, but he came from experience & a perspective that is hard to deny. In the past he called out Karl Lagerfeld & Anna Wintour, respecting what they’re good at, but also highlighting where he believes they really fall short. He never conformed to the industry, its trends or to the pressure of releasing collections based on demand. Alaia followed his intuition, always worked at his own pace, and through his unique vision defined haute couture on his own terms.

The Most Powerful Q3 Fashion Leap

The @bof just released their Q3 brand rating for 2017 & although it was revealed that @balenciaga has officially taken the crown off @gucci at # 1, the one label that has really shaken up the chart is @virgilabloh’s @off____white, making an astonishing 31 spot rise to # 3 brand in the world (hitting # 1 in the USA). Although his name will forever be cemented as one of streetwear’s true juggernauts, it’s important to note that the Milan-based fashion label also offers high-end men’s & women’s collections that are shown seasonally on the runways of @parisfashionweek & @pittimmagazine in Florence.

So where did Virgil Abloh come from? Good question! Born in Ghana in 1980 & raised in Chicago, he initially studied civil engineering, later moving on to architecture – something that would become an asset as a fashion designer. In 2009 he founded @rsvpgallery, an art gallery & men’s boutique close to Chicago’s famous Wicker Park. Considered a Chicago visionary it’s no surprise that he would soon take on the role of Creative Director at DONDA (@kanyew.est’s creative agency). In 2012 Virgil launched @pyrexvision23, but hardly saw any market success. Although recently revived, after he shut it down just shy of a year in 2013, Virgil wasted no time to launch Off-White, the fashion tsunami currently taking over the world. While also offering consulting services within the fashion industry, official collaborations have grown to include @Kith@jimmychoo@moncler@levis@fujiwarahiroshi & his latest fire release “The Ten” collection for @Nike (not their first collab btw). For an official report & ranking, head over to the Business of Fashion website!

www.businessoffashion.com

Conde Nast Launches THEM

Conde Nast is easily one of the most progressive and ambitious publishing houses in the world, which makes Wednesday’s news exciting yet not so surprising. As part of a new incubator platform designed to highlight future leaders and new thinking across their portfolio, they took to all their platforms to announce the launch of its first project – them.

Spearheaded by Phillip Picardi (photo above), the new digital community launches on Oct 26 and will be the first mainstream platform to solely focus on LGBTQ rights, expression, & current events. “them chronicles and celebrates the stories, people and voices that are emerging and inspiring all of us, ranging in topics from pop culture & style to politics and news, all through the lens of today’s LGBTQ community.”

We think it’s beautiful to see fashion driving equality by utilizing powerful platforms to spread humanness across publishing, campaigns, & mass marketing. For some it may seem like a trend in pop-culture, but for many the open conversation and widespread support means that they no longer have to hide their true selves or suppress the love they feel inside. We know the world has a long way to go, but ‘them’ is a major step forward in global acceptance and widespread appreciation of self.

Fashion Film Festival Milano 2017

Last night wrapped one of the best fashion festivals we’ve ever been to. Sitting front row center & watching all the latest fashion films was inspiring, exciting, & extremely motivating. We saw brands do everything from quick eye catching clips to conceptual and experimental short films that pushed creativity, lifestyle, & artistry through cinematic experiences.

@fashionfilmfestivalmilano really took the time to curate viewings, press conference, and live Q&A with some of the fashion industry’s most influential directors, film makers, & progressive social icons. We truly appreciate being invited, and look forward to presenting some of our own film creations to the panel in the coming seasons.

Above snapshot is from one of our favorites this season, @Strellson‘s short film by @joffreyjans x @wolf_und_lamm.

Donatella’s Special Tribute To Brother Gianni Versace x Milan Fashion Week SS’18

Versace won over Milan Fashion Week in yesterday during their SS18 runway show with a surprise power move that paid homage to the visionary designer, fashion legend, and founder of the iconic fashion house, Gianni Versace. Donatella truly paid her final respects to her brother with a collection that highlighted the heart and soul of what Versace has always stood for – bold animated prints, sexy chic silhouettes, and powerful women.

Although an incredible show, it’s the finale that was a true tribute to Gianni’s legacy. The show ended with a surprise reveal of fashions original and luminary Supermodels with @carlabruniofficial@claudiaschiffer@iamnaomicampbell@cindycrawford and @helenachristensen, all standing side by side looking out over the runway. Everyone in attendance went wild in appreciation, not only for an absolutely incredible show, but to pay their respects for an era of history that shaped the fashion industry as we know it. “But today I am not sad. I am happy that after 20 years I can finally do this with a smile on my face.” – @donatella_versace

The Impression Bi-annual Film Issue Presents Fashion’s Killer Creatives

Truly an honour to have our latest editorial featured in the pages of @theimpression_’s Film Issue alongside Fashion’s Killer Creatives Fabien Baron, Trey Laird, Riccardo Ruini, Doug Lloyd, David Lipman, Ivan Bart, Kevin Kollenda, and Nicola Formichetti.

Printed on beautiful double coated paper, inside the 500+ curated pages of their Bi-annual Film Issue you’ll find; re-imagined movie posters, fresh editorial takes on cult classics, in-depth interviews with some of the industry’s top creative minds, and a special COMING ATTRACTIONS section featuring the new breed of talented Art Directors shaping the future of the fashion landscape.

RANKIN To Launch The New CANVAS Pop-up Space In Harvey Nichols

John RANKIN Waddell (@rankinarchive) was born in Glasgow & raised in Hertfordshire. Starting out as a student at Brighton Polytechnic, once he realized his passion in photography, Rankin dropped out to enrol at Barnfield College in Brighton, later moving on to the London College of Printing. It’s there he met @jeffersonhack & what started as a school project, launched into what is now the iconic @Dazed. The duo went on to launch @dazedfashion & TV, and now the dazed group also publishes @anothermagazine@another_man.

In 2011 Rankin launched The Hunger – a biannual magazine celebrating the culturally and visually hungry. Identifying with the rise of digital content Hunger TV online was also born – a video based digital platform featuring in-depth interviews, fashion films, blogs, updates, and previews.

Rankin has photographed some of the the world’s most influential humans & has become widely known for his portraiture of bands, artists, supermodels & politicians. Working with all forms of media & broadcasting he has published over 30 books, directed countless video, films & commercials, & has lead interactive exhibitions all over the world. Today, @hungermagazine is set to launch the new CANVAS pop-up space at @harveynichols in Knightsbridge to celebrate 5 years & it’s 12th issue on newsstands. You will be able to browse back issues, and get your hands on the Hunger book published by @teneuespublishing.

DIOR Exhibit x The ROM x Holt Renfrew

To celebrate 70 years of @dior, a special exhibition will be gracing the halls of the @romtoronto. Credited with reviving the Paris Haute Couture scene after the WW2, the exhibit will mark this iconic era of design that spanned a decade between 1947 – 1957.

The exhibition will be curated in the form of an retrospective, highlighting the dynamic & intricate designs of the master of couture himself Monsieur Christian Dior. “Christian Dior’s revolutionary fashions captured the excitement of post war modernity and have stood the test of time. This was made possible with the work of numerous industries and artisans who produced extraordinary ribbons, beads, sequins, and embroideries that Dior incorporated into his dresses with the assistance of his imaginative pattern makers, tailors, and seamstresses. These contributions resulted in striking, elegant, and poised fashions that accommodated all women for all times of day and night. This sophisticated and integrated vision continues to resonate and guide the creativity of the House of Dior.” – Dr. Alexandra Palmer, Fashion Costume Curator, ROM.

In association with @holtrenfrew the new exhibit will be on display Nov 25 – March 18 of next year.

MARNI x #LOVE18

I’ve always admired the imagination of kids playing dress-up, and the hand-me-down culture growing up with siblings. Shot by @ethanjamesgreen for @thelovemagazine‘s #love18 issue, @marni’s new creative director – Francesco Risso, takes to it’s pages to showcase the brands FW’17 collection by dressings a bunch of kids from New York state. The natural vibe & playful emotion these kids harness in this photo set is undeniable.

We’re always happy to see brands stay true to their values, while still pushing the boundaries of inspiration across each collection.

Gucci Releases Sci-Fi Inspired FW’17 Campaign

@Gucci just released quite possibly one of the most iconic Campaigns in the history of the brand, proving that chic doesn’t mean taking yourself so seriously. Following it’s latest retro vibe, the FW’17 Sci-Fi inspired collection, shot by Glen Luchford, is obviously reminiscent of iconic 1960’s movies & TV shows like Creature from the Black Lagoon, Forbidden Planet, and Star Trek as the more obvious references.

Production value is insane, the collection is fire, and details found in each shot are simply ‘out of this world’.

Controversy Update

For those that remember, or not, after the runway show for this collection earlier in the year, a CSM student took to Instagram accusing Alessandro Michele of stealing thier ideas, saying “I am just a student working hard on building my own stuff and the last thing we need as young creatives is to be ripped off”, and had the support of student-run magazines @1granary & @bafcsm. “Wherever your influences come from, it is vital to credit. Young emerging designers and artists only have their ideas to trade,” it posted. Fast forward to just a few days ago, and it’s safe to say that Gucci’s official campaign has respectfully put all accusations to rest.

I do believe that many of the larger companies do indeed rip off other companies & smaller brands, and it happens often. That said though, and with all due respect, inspiration is everywhere, and unless completely and literally stolen, it’s pretty hard to claim that a person’s ideas are uniquely their own in this day and age – especially in the context of art, fashion, and imagination.

Colette To Close Its Doors After 20 Years

After 20 years as one of the world’s leading Fashion shops, @colette announced that it is set to close it’s doors in Dec. Since opening, Colette has been ahead of the retail curve. The 3 story, 800 sq.ft space was founded by Colette Roussaux in 1997, & recently led by her daughter Sarah Andelman.

The retail concept giant went to @instagram last week to share the news that, “As all good things must come to an end, after twenty wonderful years, colette should be closing its doors on December 20th of this year,” gracefully explaining that Colette Roussaux herself is ready to retire & that “colette cannot exist without Colette.” @karllagerfeld feels the same way.

In a @bof interview last year he was quoted in part by saying, “ .. they have invented a formula that you can’t copy easily, because there is only one Colette & her & Sarah are 200 percent involved.” Colette is more than just a retail space, which is what makes its departure from the arena such a loss for fashion. Its been the stage for exclusive product launches, book signing events, & has used it’s platform to raise its voice & make powerful statements at every turn. For those that remember, when Hedi Slimane decided to change the name of YSL to Saint Laurent in 2012, Colette released a run of 300 t-shirts that said “Ain’t Laurent Without Yves”. They are also recognizably the first shop to mix streetwear brands with high-end ready-to-wear on the same floor, foreseeing the future of fashion as we know it today.

In an industry where so many brands, shops, & designer futures are led by, & are in the hands of fashion’s industry metrics, it’s nice to see a company take matters in their own hands & confidently step away at its pinnacle. As for it’s salespeople, Saint Laurent is currently in negotiations to take over the iconic retail space, & it seems like their futures are still in good hands.

Diesel #MakeLoveNotWalls

At a time where racial and social separations seem to be running rampant in the news and our own backyards, Nicola Formichetti’s recent campaign for Diesel is not only beautiful but highlights an important message. Shot by David Lachapelle “Make Love Not Walls” uses the brands global platform to inspire change.

#makelovenotwalls is about tearing down the mental and physical walls that separate us, and let all sides come together in the name of unity and love. @diesel wants to tear down these walls showing that a brighter and exciting tomorrow is possible … At Diesel, we have a strong position against hate and more than ever we want the world to know that, to use our voice for good, love and togetherness is crucial in creating a society we all want to live in, and the future we all deserve.” – @NicolaFormichetti, Diesel Artistic Director

With a world that breaks down the fashion industry for not caring about social issues or peoples welfare, it truly warms my heart when labels utilize their power & influence to inspire positivity, inclusiveness, & a progressive change in the hearts of humankind.

To view the complete campaign in all its inspiring beauty, visit – diesel.com/makelovenotwalls

Follow Yossi Fisher Studio